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How much does a chicken coop cost?

The spread between the cheapest and the dearest coop on this page is roughly twentyfold, and almost none of it is about how many hens fit.

By Mike M.Last updated

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Ketive 83-inch Chicken Coop with Run (4-6 hens) from Ketive

Top pick

Ketive 83-inch Chicken Coop with Run (4-6 hens) from Ketive

Ketive 83-inch Chicken Coop with Run (4-6 hens)

83 inches of coop-and-run for 4-6 birds.

#ad How we are funded · Price as of November 8, 2026

Quick picks

#ProductStated capacityScorePrice
Rank 1
Ketive 83-inch Chicken Coop with Run (4-6 hens) from Ketive

Ketive 83-inch Chicken Coop with Run (4-6 hens)

The most run length per dollar at six hens

4-6 chickens8.7$159.99Ketive 83-inch
Rank 2
GOJOOASIS Wooden Hen House (2-5 hens) from GOJOOASIS

GOJOOASIS Wooden Hen House (2-5 hens)

A simple, cheap first coop with a pull-out tray

2-5 chickens8.5$169.99GOJOOASIS Wooden Hen
Rank 3
PawHut Large Wooden Chicken Coop, 83in x 73in x 73in from PawHut

PawHut Large Wooden Chicken Coop, 83in x 73in x 73in

Eight to ten hens in a coop you can walk into

8-10 hens9.2$399.99PawHut Large Wooden
Rank 4
Hatching Time SnapLock Formex Standard Coop from Hatching Time

Hatching Time SnapLock Formex Standard Coop

Four hens, and never scrubbing wood again

4 chickens9.2$549.99Hatching Time
Rank 5
COZIWOW 9ft Extra Large Coop with Full Waterproof Cover from COZIWOW

COZIWOW 9ft Extra Large Coop with Full Waterproof Cover

A big covered run without building one

Not published8.9$592.99COZIWOW 9ft Extra
Rank 6
Omlet Eglu Cube Large from Omlet

Omlet Eglu Cube Large

Buy-it-once plastic, with the strongest predator record

Not published9.4$1,399.00Omlet Eglu Cube

#ad Prices come from Amazon and change. How this site is funded. Scores are our own published rubric, not a lab test — see how we pick.

A backyard chicken coop spans roughly twentyfold from the cheapest to the dearest, and the money is not buying bird capacity. It is buying four things: usable floor area, whether a run comes with it, whether you can stand up inside, and how many winters the structure survives. Capacity claims move far less than price does, which is exactly why shopping on the stated bird count leads people wrong.

Every price in the table below is pulled live and carries the date it was checked. Nothing on this page quotes a number from memory, and the prose talks in tiers and multiples rather than dollar figures for the same reason — a figure typed into a sentence is wrong within a week.

First: the number that decides whether any of it is good value

Penn State Extension's small-scale poultry housing guidance puts a large chicken at 2 square feet of coop floor plus run space, and the figure most backyard keepers are better served by is 4 square feet per bird where the flock is confined for long stretches of winter. Multiply the coop's stated interior dimensions, divide by that, and compare the answer to the bird count on the box.

Do that across a price range and a pattern appears immediately: capacity claims are roughly double the honest figure at every tier, including the expensive ones. A pricier coop is not usually a bigger coop. It is a better-built coop of a similar size. Chicken coop size per chicken works the arithmetic through properly, and it is the single most useful thing to read before spending anything.

Tier 1 — a raised hutch, no run

The cheapest thing sold as a chicken coop is a small raised timber box with a nest compartment and a pull-out tray. It is a roost-and-lay house, not a complete home, and it is honest value only if you already have a fenced run or intend to build one.

  • What you get: a dry, elevated sleeping and laying space, a slide-out tray that makes weekly cleaning a thirty-second job, and a footprint that fits a genuinely small yard.
  • What you do not get: run space, a latch a raccoon cannot work, or panel stock that survives a wet climate without resealing in year one.
  • Buy this if the run already exists, the flock is two or three birds, and you are comfortable upgrading the mesh and the latch yourself.

Tier 2 — a coop with an attached run

The volume tier, and where most first-time buyers land. A raised house at one end, a wire run at the other, assembled from flat-pack panels. The run is the reason this tier exists: it turns the purchase into a complete setup rather than the first half of one.

  • What you get: housing and outdoor space in one delivery, usually a nest box or two, and an asking price close to tier 1 because the extra material is cheap wire and softwood.
  • What you do not get: standing room, an honest bird count, or hardware cloth. The supplied mesh is almost always chicken wire, which is not a predator barrier whatever the listing implies.
  • Buy this if you want one purchase that works on day one and you are willing to spend a Saturday re-meshing the run.

Tier 3 — a walk-in you can stand up in

Two to three times tier 2, and the first tier where the structure changes rather than just getting larger. A walk-in coop has a human-height door, a floor you can reach every corner of, and usually a run tall enough to work in.

  • What you get: the ability to clean properly, which is the feature that actually gets used. A coop you dread cleaning is a coop that does not get cleaned, and every husbandry problem downstream — mites, ammonia, dirty eggs — traces back to that.
  • What you do not get: a change in material quality. Most walk-ins at this tier are the same softwood and asphalt-felt construction as tier 2, just more of it.
  • Buy this if the flock is six or more, or if your back has an opinion about kneeling in a doorway twice a week.

Walk-in chicken coops is the dedicated ranking for this tier, and the best coops with runs covers the step below it.

Tier 4 — structural plastic, bought once

A different argument entirely. Double-wall structural foam or molded plastic costs roughly the same as a large timber walk-in, houses fewer birds, and is bought for one reason: there is nowhere in the wall for red mite to live, and the whole thing hoses out in minutes.

  • What you get: no rot, no repainting, no resealing, no mite harborage in the grain, and a cleaning routine measured in minutes. Insulating wall sections moderate both winter cold and summer heat better than thin ply.
  • What you do not get: floor area per dollar. You are paying plastic-coop money for a flock a cheaper timber coop would house, and the unit is light enough that it must be anchored against wind.
  • Buy this if you have fought mites in a wooden coop, or you know yourself well enough to know that "I will reseal it every spring" is not true.

Plastic vs wood chicken coops is the full version of this argument, with the trade-offs in both directions.

Tier 5 — the decade purchase

Several times tier 4, and bought by people who have already replaced one cheap coop. At this tier you get cabinet-grade construction, real hardware, a roof specified in years rather than seasons, and a brand with a parts history — or, on the premium plastic side, a system with a warranty measured in a decade.

  • What you get: a structure that is still square after five winters, latches that were designed rather than selected on price, and resale value that genuinely exists.
  • What you do not get: anything a tier 3 or tier 4 coop does not also do in principle. This is reliability and finish, not capability.
  • Buy this if you intend to keep chickens for a decade, you have the space fixed, and replacing a coop in three years would annoy you more than the price does now.

Every tier, with today's price

One or two representatives of each tier, cheapest first. The price column is live and carries its own as-of date.

#1 · The most run length per dollar at six hens

Ketive 83-inch Chicken Coop with Run (4-6 hens)

Ketive

83 inches of coop-and-run for 4-6 birds. The published length is the useful number here: it is one of the few listings in this band that tells you the footprint before you buy.

Published specifications
Stated capacity4-6 chickens
Overall length83 in
RunAttached
ConstructionWood frame
Nesting boxYes, integrated

Specifications per Manufacturer figures as published on the Amazon product listing, as published at the date above.

Why we picked it

  • Published overall length, so you can mark it out on the lawn before ordering
  • Long, narrow footprint fits down the side of a house where square coops will not
  • Run and house in one purchase

Good to know — 83 inches total includes the run, so the house itself is small for six hens

Our rubric

Space per bird
8.4
Predator resistance
7.9
Ventilation
8.9
Cleaning access
8.9
Build
8.4
Value
9.8

#2 · A simple, cheap first coop with a pull-out tray

GOJOOASIS Wooden Hen House (2-5 hens)

GOJOOASIS

A conventional raised wooden hutch with a pull-out tray, stated for 2-5 birds. Sensible for two or three hens with a separate run; five is optimistic.

Published specifications
Stated capacity2-5 chickens
ConstructionWood, raised on legs
CleaningPull-out tray
Nesting boxYes, integrated
Floor areaNot published by manufacturer

Specifications per Manufacturer figures as published on the Amazon product listing, as published at the date above.

Why we picked it

  • Raised design puts the floor above ground damp and gives the birds shade underneath
  • Pull-out tray is the feature that decides whether you actually clean a coop weekly
  • Simple construction means fewer parts to fail and easy repairs with offcuts

Good to know — Stated 2-5 capacity is a wide range; plan for the low end

Our rubric

Space per bird
7.9
Predator resistance
7.9
Ventilation
8.4
Cleaning access
9.3
Build
8.4
Value
9.3

#3 · Eight to ten hens in a coop you can walk into

PawHut Large Wooden Chicken Coop, 83in x 73in x 73in from PawHut
$399.99PawHut Large Wooden Chicken at Amazon

$419.99 5% off

#ad How we are funded · Price as of November 8, 2026

PawHut Large Wooden Chicken Coop, 83in x 73in x 73in

PawHut

The rare large coop that publishes all three dimensions: 83 x 73 x 73 inches for 8-10 hens. 73 inches of height is the number that matters — you can stand up inside it to clean.

Published specifications
Stated capacity8-10 hens
Dimensions83 in L x 73 in W x 73 in H
FootprintAbout 42 sq ft
ConstructionWood
FinishLight brown

Specifications per Manufacturer figures as published on the Amazon product listing, as published at the date above.

Why we picked it

  • All three dimensions published, so the 8-10 claim is actually checkable — and it holds up
  • 73 in internal height means cleaning standing up instead of on your knees
  • About 42 sq ft of footprint covers ten standard hens at roughly 4 sq ft each

Good to know — Large and heavy to assemble; two people and a free afternoon

Our rubric

Space per bird
9.8
Predator resistance
8.4
Ventilation
9.3
Cleaning access
9.3
Build
8.9
Value
9.3

#4 · Four hens, and never scrubbing wood again

Hatching Time SnapLock Formex Standard Coop

Hatching Time

A double-wall structural-foam coop that assembles without tools and hoses out completely. The reason to pay plastic-coop money is mites: there is nowhere in the wall for them to hide.

Published specifications
Stated capacity4 chickens
MaterialFormex structural foam (double wall)
AssemblySnap-together, no tools published
VentilationBuilt-in vents
Floor areaNot published by manufacturer

Specifications per Manufacturer figures as published on the Amazon product listing, as published at the date above.

Why we picked it

  • Non-porous double-wall plastic gives red mite nowhere to breed — the single biggest argument against wooden coops
  • Hoses out and dries in minutes instead of soaking into timber
  • Insulating foam wall is genuinely warmer in winter and cooler in summer than thin ply
  • Snap assembly means no half-day with a drill and a missing screw pack

Good to know — Several times the price of a wooden coop of the same stated capacity

Our rubric

Space per bird
8.9
Predator resistance
8.9
Ventilation
9.3
Cleaning access
10.0
Build
9.8
Value
8.4

#5 · A big covered run without building one

COZIWOW 9ft Extra Large Coop with Full Waterproof Cover

COZIWOW

A nine-foot enclosure with a full waterproof cover. Read it as a large covered run with a shelter rather than a true 20-bird coop — but as a run, the full cover is what keeps winter mud under control.

Published specifications
Overall length9 ft
CoverFull waterproof cover
TypeLarge coop-and-run enclosure
Stated capacityNot published by manufacturer
Floor areaNot published by manufacturer

Specifications per Manufacturer figures as published on the Amazon product listing, as published at the date above.

Why we picked it

  • A full waterproof cover over the whole footprint is the single best mud-control feature a run can have
  • Nine feet of length is real space for a flock to spread out on a wet day
  • Covered runs also block hawks, which an open-topped run does not

Good to know — No stated bird capacity — size it from the footprint, not the marketing

Our rubric

Space per bird
9.3
Predator resistance
7.9
Ventilation
9.8
Cleaning access
8.9
Build
8.4
Value
8.9

#6 · Buy-it-once plastic, with the strongest predator record

Omlet Eglu Cube Large

Omlet

The reference plastic coop: twin-wall insulated plastic, a slide-out droppings tray, and the only hen house in common backyard use with a genuine reputation for stopping foxes and raccoons at the door.

Published specifications
MaterialTwin-wall insulated plastic
CleaningSlide-out droppings tray; fully washable
MobilityOptional wheel kit
SecurityMarketed as a secure hen house
Floor areaNot published by manufacturer

Specifications per Omlet published specifications, as published at the date above.

Why we picked it

  • Twin-wall plastic is the best mite-proofing available short of a metal coop
  • Droppings tray pulls out, so the weekly clean is genuinely five minutes
  • The strongest predator reputation of any plastic coop in backyard use
  • Holds value: used Eglus sell for a large fraction of new

Good to know — By far the most expensive coop on this page

Our rubric

Space per bird
9.3
Predator resistance
9.8
Ventilation
9.8
Cleaning access
10.0
Build
9.8
Value
7.5

The tiers side by side

TierWhat it isRun included?Stand up inside?Realistic lifespanMesh upgrade needed?
1 — Raised hutchRoost and nest box on legsNoNo2-4 seasons untreatedYes
2 — Coop with runHouse plus attached wire runYesNo3-5 seasonsYes
3 — Walk-in timberHuman-height door and runUsuallyYes5-8 seasonsUsually
4 — Structural plasticMolded or double-wall foamSometimesNoA decade-plusRun only
5 — Premium buildCabinet-grade timber or premium plastic systemVariesVariesA decade-plusNo
Lifespans are the realistic service life of the structure in a wet climate before major repair, not a manufacturer warranty. Every coop on this page publishes a stated bird count; where a listing does not publish interior dimensions, our spec table says "Not published by manufacturer" rather than estimating the floor area.

The costs that are not the coop

The coop is the headline number and it is rarely the whole number. Four things turn up afterwards on nearly every build:

  1. Hardware cloth. Half-inch, 19-gauge, for the run and every vent. At tiers 1 to 3 assume you are buying it.
  2. A better latch. Raccoons defeat hook-and-eye and simple barrel bolts. A two-step or gravity latch is a small line item that prevents the expensive kind of loss.
  3. Bedding, continuously. Not a one-off. Coop bedding compares what the options actually cost to run.
  4. A feeder and waterer sized to the flock, which is its own decision — automatic feeder prices breaks that category down the same way this page breaks down coops.

The cost of raising chickens puts all of it together into a first-year figure, including the recurring items this page deliberately leaves out.

Is building cheaper than buying?

Usually yes on materials, often no on time, and it depends entirely on what you already own. A DIY coop built from sheet goods and salvaged framing comes in under tier 2 for materials and gives you exactly the floor area you specified, which is the real advantage — you stop negotiating with somebody else's capacity claim.

What it costs you is a weekend or three and a tolerance for a result that looks homemade. Chicken coop kit vs DIY sets out the honest comparison, including the cases where a kit genuinely wins.

What we would actually buy

For a first flock of three to six birds in a yard with no existing run: tier 2, a coop with an attached run, plus hardware cloth and a better latch on day one. It is the shortest path to a working setup and the mesh upgrade is cheap relative to the coop.

For six or more birds, or anyone who expects to be doing this in five years: tier 3, a walk-in. The ability to clean properly compounds, and the price step over tier 2 is smaller than the step in daily quality of life.

For anyone who has already fought red mite in a wooden coop: tier 4, structural plastic, and accept the smaller flock. That problem does not come back.

Frequently asked questions

How much should I spend on a chicken coop?
Enough to reach tier 2 — a coop with an attached run — if you have no run already, and tier 3 if the flock is six or more birds. Below that you are buying a hutch that still needs a run built around it. Above tier 3 you are buying durability and material rather than more space for the birds.
Why do cheap and expensive coops claim the same number of chickens?
Because the stated bird count is a marketing figure rather than a measured one, and it is roughly double the honest number at every price. Multiply the published interior dimensions and divide by 4 square feet per large bird to get the real capacity, then compare tiers on build quality instead.
What hidden costs come with a chicken coop?
Four, reliably: half-inch hardware cloth to replace the supplied chicken wire, a predator-proof latch, bedding on an ongoing basis, and a feeder and waterer sized to the flock. At the lower tiers the mesh and latch together are a meaningful fraction of the coop price and should be in the budget from the start.
Is a plastic chicken coop worth the extra money?
If you have had red mite in a wooden coop, yes — a non-porous double wall gives mites nowhere to breed and the whole structure hoses out. If you have not, you are paying plastic-coop money for fewer birds than a timber walk-in at the same price would house.
Is it cheaper to build your own chicken coop?
On materials, usually. A DIY build from sheet goods comes in below a tier 2 kit and gives you exactly the floor area you specify. It costs you a weekend or three, and the finish looks homemade. Where a kit wins is time and a predictable result.
How long does a chicken coop last?
Realistically 2 to 4 seasons for an untreated budget hutch in a wet climate, 3 to 5 for a coop-and-run kit, 5 to 8 for a walk-in, and a decade or more for structural plastic or a cabinet-grade timber build. Resealing softwood in year one extends the lower tiers considerably.

Our recommendation

If you buy one thing from this page, buy the first one. The second is here because it is the alternative worth weighing against it, not because a list needs two entries.

Top pick

Ketive 83-inch Chicken Coop with Run (4-6 hens)

The most run length per dollar at six hens

Runner-up

GOJOOASIS Wooden Hen House (2-5 hens)

A simple, cheap first coop with a pull-out tray

Sources

7-Egg Mini Incubator with 360-degree View from Generic

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Plain-English gear picks for backyard chicken keepers, sized by how many hens you actually have.